AHA Acids for Skin: Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic – Which One Is Right for You?

May 18, 2026 · 6 min. read

The world of skin care products is very complex and confusing, especially when we see ingredients in their composition identified by alphabetical names that rejuvenate, moisturize, cleanse, or nourish your skin. Among these are AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), which have already become a cornerstone of modern skin care. More and more scientific studies confirm their effectiveness, so it can be said that they are a miracle ingredient that you simply must know about. Therefore, in this article, we will try to answer the questions: what exactly are AHA acids and how are they beneficial for your skin?

What Are AHA Acids and How Do They Affect the Skin?

AHA acids, or alpha hydroxy acids, are water-soluble acids derived from sugar cane, milk, fruit, and almonds. They work in the surface layer of the epidermis—they weaken the bonds between dead cells and allow them to shed more quickly. The skin appears smoother, brighter, and more even in tone.

Our cosmetologists often explain it simply to clients. AHAs do not scrape the skin. They accelerate the natural cell renewal cycle, which slows with age from 28 to 40 days or more. Therefore, with regular use, a reduction in dullness, fine lines, and uneven pigmentation can be noticed.

Glycolic, Lactic, and Mandelic Acids: Which AHA Is Right for Your Skin?

All three belong to the AHA group, but they work differently. The difference is determined by the size of the molecule. The smaller the molecule, the deeper it penetrates and the stronger the effect. This is a simple rule worth remembering when choosing a product.

Glycolic Acid - the Strongest and Deepest-Acting

Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of all AHAs. It penetrates the deepest and works the strongest. It is suitable for normal, oily, thickened skin, as well as mature skin with pigmentation spots and fine lines. Concentrations for daily care usually range between 5 and 10 %.

However, for sensitive or thin skin, glycolic acid is often too strong. Redness, tingling, and peeling may occur. If the skin has not previously been accustomed to acids, it is better to start with a gentler option.

Mandelic Acid - the Gentlest and Safest for Beginners

Mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds and has the largest molecule. It works slowly and on the surface, so it is less likely to irritate. It is the best choice for sensitive skin, skin prone to rosacea, and darker phototypes that easily develop pigmentation after stronger treatments.

Mandelic acid also has a mild antibacterial effect. Therefore, it is excellent for acne-prone skin for which glycolic acid would be too strong. Customers often ask whether it is worth starting with mandelic acid. The answer is yes, if you are unsure about your skin's tolerance.

Lactic Acid - Exfoliates and Hydrates at the Same Time

Lactic acid occupies the middle position between glycolic and mandelic acids. But it has one unique property - it attracts and retains water in the skin. It is the only AHA that also hydrates. Ideal for dry, dehydrated, dull skin that needs both renewal and moisture.

Lactic acid is often chosen for mature skin that is starting to feel drier. It gently removes dead cells while leaving the skin softer. Concentrations from 5 to 10 % for daily care are suitable for almost everyone.

Want a stronger effect for oily or combination skin with clogged pores? Then it is worth combining AHA with BHA acid, which works inside the pore. These are two different tasks, but they complement each other perfectly.

Beautician's advice

Clients often ask why their skin started peeling after the first use of an acid. The answer is simple—it was introduced too aggressively. Our cosmetologists always recommend introducing AHA gradually: use it only 1–2 times during the first week, 3 times during the second week, and only then move on to daily use if the skin tolerates it well. In the evening, on clean, dry skin, before serum and cream. Never use AHA on the same evening as retinol or vitamin C—the skin is put under too much stress and reacts with irritation.

Face creams Always pair AHA acid with a properly selected moisturizing cream. After exfoliation, the skin becomes more sensitive and loses moisture more quickly, so it needs additional care. A good face cream restores the protective barrier and allows acids to work without discomfort.

›

How to use AHA acids safely every day?

Safe use is half the battle. AHA acids thin the superficial layer of the skin, making the skin more sensitive to the sun. This is not a myth, but a biological fact. Without proper protection, the result will be the opposite of what you want: instead of brighter skin, you will get new pigmentation spots.

Use AHA only in the evening. In the morning, the skin is exposed to the sun, so acids should be applied during your evening routine, after cleansing and before moisturizer. Wait 1-2 minutes for the product to absorb, and only then apply the next layer.

In the morning, be sure to use SPF 30 or higher. This is non-negotiable. Sun protection is the product that determines whether AHA will give you smoother skin or new problems. Apply it daily, including in winter and on cloudy days.

Start with a lower concentration. 5 % glycolic or 8 % mandelic acid is completely sufficient to begin with. Observe how your skin reacts during the first two weeks. If persistent redness or burning occurs, reduce the frequency of use or switch to a gentler acid.

Three AHA Products We Recommend

For beginners and sensitive skin, we recommend gentler formulas, while for thickened or mature skin, stronger-acting products. All three are suitable for daily evening care and help safely incorporate AHA into your routine. Choose according to your skin type and tolerance level.

DR. SPILLER

SPECIAL PEELING MILK - Gentle Exfoliating Emulsion, 200ml

The Special Exfoliating Milk is more intensive than the Jojoba Exfoliating Cream. It is better suited to oilier, thicker skin. It contains small cellu...

€36.60 View

DERMACEUTIC

FOAMER 5 Cleanser with 5% glycolic acid, 100 ml

Indications: dull-looking skin, uneven texture. Suitable for all skin types.

€43.90 View

SESDERMA

SKIN BALANCE at-home peeling program

The SKIN BALANCE at-home peel program is formulated based on the effectiveness of professional chemical peels. The salicylic, mandelic, azelaic, and f...

€34.10 View

Dažniausiai užduodami klausimai

Can AHA acid be used every day?

Yes, but not immediately. Start with 2–3 times per week in the evening and monitor your skin’s reaction. If after two weeks your skin tolerates it well, the frequency can be increased to daily use. However, for some skin types, 3–4 times per week is enough—more does not necessarily provide better results. Listen to your skin: if you notice a feeling of tightness, redness, or peeling, reduce the frequency.

Which AHA acid is best for sensitive skin?

Mandelic acid. It has the largest molecule of all AHAs, so it penetrates the slowest and works the most gently. Mandelic acid is suitable for sensitive skin, skin prone to rosacea, and darker phototype skin. You can start with a 5–8% concentration. Lactic acid is also gentler than glycolic acid and additionally hydrates, so it can be a good alternative if you do not have mandelic acid.

Can AHA be combined with retinol or vitamin C?

Not on the same evening. AHA and retinol together cause excessive irritation for most skin types. It is best to use them on different days: AHA one evening, retinol the next. Vitamin C is applied in the morning, AHA in the evening, so they do not interfere with each other, but using both requires careful sun protection. For beginners, we recommend introducing only one active ingredient at a time.

When is the effect of AHA acid on the skin visible?

The first glow and smoothness are noticeable after just 1–2 weeks of regular use. A more even skin tone and reduced pigmentation spots appear after 4–6 weeks. Fine lines and changes in texture require 8–12 weeks of consistent care. It is important not to interrupt use—skin renews itself cyclically, and if the process is stopped, it returns to its initial condition within a few weeks.

Are AHA acids safe during pregnancy?

Glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids in low concentrations (up to 10%) are considered safe during pregnancy, as they act only on the surface layer of the skin and hardly enter the bloodstream. However, before using any active ingredient during pregnancy, always consult your doctor. High concentrations of salicylic acid and retinoids should be avoided - these ingredients are not recommended during pregnancy.