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Enlarged Pores: What Works and How to Create a Routine

July 4, 2026  ·  6 min. read

Enlarged facial pores most often become more noticeable due to excess sebum, clogged pores, sun damage, and reduced skin elasticity. In this guide, we will explain what BHA, AHA, niacinamide, retinoids, clay masks, and SPF actually do. We will show you how to visually minimize pores and how to create a gentle routine for oily, combination, or sensitive skin without weakening the skin barrier. You will get specific morning and evening combinations.

Why Do Enlarged Pores Become More Noticeable?

Pores are natural openings in the skin through which sebum and sweat are released. Their size is determined by genetics, but visually they appear larger for several reasons. First - excess sebum in oily and combination skin. Second - clogged pores caused by stratum corneum cells and makeup residue. Third - sun damage, which breaks down collagen and elastin, causing the skin to lose firmness and the openings themselves to appear wider.

Can pores be closed permanently? No. But they can be visually minimized - cleansed, sebum production regulated, and collagen strengthened. This requires a consistent routine, not aggressive exfoliation.

Which Ingredients Affect Pores?

Not all active ingredients work in the same way. Some cleanse the inside of pores, others regulate sebum, while others strengthen the skin’s structure. The best effect comes from a smart combination of them, not from one “strong” product.

BHA (Salicylic Acid)

Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it penetrates the pore and dissolves blockages from within. It is the key ingredient for oily skin and a T-zone prone to blackheads. Use 2 - 3 times a week as a toner or serum, especially if you are also dealing with a routine for acne-prone skin.

AHA (Glycolic and Lactic Acids)

AHAs work on the surface - they loosen dead cells, smooth texture, and make pore edges less visible. Glycolic acid is suitable for more resilient skin, while lactic acid is better for more sensitive skin. Use in the evenings, alternate with BHA, and do not use both on the same evening.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at a concentration of 4 - 5% regulates sebum production, strengthens the skin barrier, and visibly reduces the appearance of pores after a few weeks. This ingredient pairs well with almost everything and is suitable even for sensitive skin.

Retinoids

Retinols stimulate cell renewal and collagen synthesis. Over time, the skin becomes firmer and pore openings appear tighter. Start with a low concentration 2 times a week in the evenings.

Clay Masks

White and green clay absorb excess sebum and draw out blockages. Once a week for combination and oily skin provides a noticeable change after just a month.

SPF

Without daily protection, everything else means little. UV rays break down collagen, which is why pores become more noticeable primarily due to sun damage, not age.

Beautician's advice

Why do pores look even more visible after a week of using BHA? Our cosmetologists notice that clients get worried during the first few days, when impurities come to the surface and the black color becomes more pronounced. This is a normal cleansing stage, not a bad sign. We recommend not stopping - use the acid 2 - 3 times a week, apply niacinamide daily, and always use SPF in the morning. You will see a real change after 4 - 6 weeks. The most important thing is not to overdo it. One effective serum is better than five products used at the same time, which only weaken the barrier.

How to Build a Routine According to Skin Type?

For oily and combination skin in the morning: a gentle gel cleanser, niacinamide serum, lightweight gel cream, SPF 30 - 50. In the evening: cleanser, BHA or AHA toner (alternating), niacinamide or retinol, moisturizing cream. Clay mask for the T-zone once a week.

For sensitive or dry skin with visible pores, choose a gentler approach. In the morning - milky cleanser, niacinamide, moisturizing cream with ceramides, SPF. In the evening - lactic acid 1 - 2 times a week instead of glycolic acid, retinol starting from the lowest concentration.

What to avoid? Harsh physical exfoliants with pit particles, alcohol-based toners, hot water, and applying products in a thick layer. Pores do not shrink from this - it only irritates the skin, while sebum production increases as the skin’s response. Choose specific products for enlarged pores according to your skin’s tolerance and current routine, not based on advertising.

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Is it possible to completely eliminate enlarged pores?
No. Pore size is genetically determined and pores cannot be physically closed. However, they can be significantly minimized visually by regularly cleansing the inside of the pores, reducing excess sebum, strengthening collagen, and protecting the skin from the sun. After 2–3 months of a consistent routine with BHA, niacinamide, retinol, and SPF, pores appear noticeably smaller and the skin smoother.
How often should you use a BHA toner?
For beginners - 2 times per week in the evenings. Once the skin gets used to it and you do not feel any irritation, you can increase to 3-4 times per week. We do not recommend using BHA daily unless the product is specifically intended for daily use with a very low concentration. Do not overload the skin with AHA and BHA together on the same evening - alternate them on different days.
Is niacinamide suitable for sensitive skin?
Yes, niacinamide is one of the best-tolerated active ingredients. At a concentration of 4-5%, it regulates sebum production, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces redness. Suitable even for skin prone to rosacea. Start with daily use in the morning after cleansing and before moisturizer. Results are visible after 4-8 weeks.
Why is SPF important for pore care?
UV rays break down collagen and elastin, which keep pore walls firm. When these proteins weaken, pore openings appear wider and more sagging. Daily use of SPF 30–50 is the most important step if you want pore-minimizing products to truly work. Without protection, even the strongest retinols will not deliver long-lasting results.
Are clay masks suitable for dry skin?
For dry skin, we recommend using clay masks only locally — on the T-zone, where sebum and clogged pores tend to accumulate more often. Do not apply it to the entire face, as clay will dry out the cheeks even more. Choose a gentler kaolin clay rather than bentonite. Use once a week and be sure to apply a moisturizing cream with ceramides or hyaluronic acid after the mask.

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